In the treatment of ageing skin we decide what the treatments are going to entail based on where the damage is and how much damage there is in the skin.

Prevention and Treatment

Your skin might be changing but the changes are more subtle and you might be worried about getting older. In this case the treatments will be focussed more on preventing further damage and treating the changes that you are seeing, generally textural change and fine lines might be the challenge. If you however have, extremely sun damaged skin (from lying on the roof tanning as a student, or you job on a cruise ship as a young adult) you might need more invasive treatments that will treat these changes while still protecting from further damage.

Epidermal and Dermal Treatments

As skin is exposed to sunlight and naturally ages there are changes in the Epidermis (top layer of the skin that sheds) and Dermis (the layer below). Treating Dermal changes with epidermal treatments defeats the object of the treatment. Generally the treatments are combined in courses that will include both Dermal and Epidermal components. This is especially necessary where there are visible signs of ageing, lines, wrinkles, textural changes, mottled pigment and sagging, of the skin.

Treatments that improve the symptoms of ageing skin

Therapists treating ageing skin will use one of two product ranges:
The Lamelle Professional range has specific ingredients that support the skin when using peels, and other dermal treatments – both before and after the treatment.
The Lamelle Essentials range is more gentle and contains ingredients that pamper the skin and should be used for maintenance.

Treatments

How it Works:

Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (fruit acid) derived from sugar cane and it’s one of the most widely used peel ingredients for the treatment of photo ageing – or sun damaged skin.

The treatment begins by removing all impurities and oils – a cleansing process which is followed either by an exfoliation or degreasing step. Oils might prevent the penetration and action of the peel on your skin so this step is important to the success of the treatment. Our exfoliator contains Cathepsin D – an ingredient that mimics the exfoliating enzyme found in your skin.Cathepsin D only removes dry, denatured skin cells, which makes it particularly safe to use in all peel treatments.

This preparation phase is followed by the application of the Alpha peel solution which is applied with a brush. The gentler Alpha peel 20 concentration is applied in the same way as the stronger Alpha peel 30.

During and directly after application you might experience a tingling, itchy sensation which will quickly dissipate and soon become more comfortable. The peel will only be on your skin for a maximum of five minutes and as with any time dependant chemical peel, it must be neutralised to stop its action. By applying a neutralising agent all the active peel molecules are changed to salts. This chemical reaction produces heat so a quick tingle is very normal during this phase of the treatment.

The neutralisation process is followed by a short massage at which point the skin is soothed and calmed and lost oils are replaced.

Depending on where you go, it’s not uncommon for a signature treatment to include: face, neck and shoulder massage, serum and mask, extractions and deep cleanse, eyebrow tint and plucking. The application of moisturiser and sunscreen completes the treatment.

Chemical Skin Peels

Your Experience:

After your treatment

  • Your skin will feel hydrated, plump and glowing. A little redness may be visible directly after the treatment but it will dissipate very quickly.

What to expect in the week after your treatment

  • The morning after the treatment your skin may feel a little tight and dry, and even feel slightly heat sensitive.If this is the case, add more moisturiser to your skin. Typically though, you can continue with your daily routine. If however your skin feels very dry – immediately contact your skin care therapist. You may need to use one of the Serra products or Lamelle Barrier Repair cream for a few days.

Special care post-treatment

  • Protect your skin by avoiding sun exposure and apply your sunscreen every morning.
  • No treatments for 14 days on the treated area. This includes waxing, peels and laser or IPL treatments and micro needling.
  • Do not exfoliate for 10 days after the treatment. This includes toners and cleansers that contain alpha hydroxy acids.
  • Only start using your retinoid (Vit. A) containing products on the evening of day six after your treatment.

How it Works:

When doing chemical peels or chemical resurfacing the aim in the long term is to restructure the full epidermis of the skin. Doing this with one treatment can be painful and result in up to 14 days of social downtime. Retistore and Retistore Plus give us full epidermal restructuring with virtually NO discomfort and a very comfortable period of downtime that is more socially acceptable.

Retistore Plus has double the active ingredients and is focussed on lighter skin colours where the ageing is more related to lines, wrinkles and sagging. Retistore is less aggressive and is focussed on darker skin colours where ageing is more related to pigmentation irregularities, change in texture and dull skin.

Your skin care therapist will suggest the best treatment for the challenges you are experiencing on your skin. She will suggest a course of treatments and might start with Retistore and move over on to the Retistore Plus when she feels your skin is ready for it.

The treatment explained

The treatment comprises two steps:

Step1: Retistore activation solution:

Using a proprietary complex of ingredients, the Retistore activation solution is essential to prepare the skin for the penetration of the Retistore restoration solution. This highly lipid-soluble activation solution gives an instant smoothed feel to the skin and allows the following layer to be properly absorbed. There is ZERO to minimal stinging while the activation solution gets to work resetting the skin cell orientation such that it allows a temporary passage through the stratum corneum layer. The Retistore activation solution is left in contact with the skin for a total of 5 minutes. This layer is then removed and the next layer is applied.

Step 2: Retistore Restoration Solution;

Applied to a cleansed and dry face, the Retistore restoration solution works at two levels of the epidermis. From the top down, the restoration solution breaks dead proteins to allow the dead skin cells to detach without injuring the skin cells further. From the base of the epidermis up; Retistore Restoration Solution rapidly enhances basal cell division and normalisation of any abnormal cell activity. Melanocyte activity is actively inhibited resulting in normalisation of melanin (pigmentation) production. The cells in the epidermis are also stimulated to produce more hyaluronic acid. This results in a plumping effect on the skin that is seen between day 5 and 7 after the treatment was performed.

Retistore restoration solution is left on the skin for between 6-12 hours depending on the treatment number and how well you tolerate this and other treatments. You then wash it of and start applying your aftercare regime as prescribed by your skin care specialist.

This top down and bottom up effect results in full epidermal restructuring from the first peel in the course of 5 peels that you will be doing.

Skin directly after the treatment

Directly after the treatment your skin will feel clean, hydrated and glowing. Some people do experience the retinoid penetrating and it might feel a little itchy but nothing irritating

What you can expect in the week after your treatment

On the first day after the treatment your skin might feel a little heat sensitive but it generally feels healthy and smooth.

Flaking: Generally day 2-5 are when your skin will go through the most, fine flaking. This will vary from person to person depending on if you have had other peels or not, how long you left layer two on your skin, the number of Retistore peels you have had and if you have had any pre-treatment with products or not. This is not an active, “big pieces of skin” peel and in some cases you might just experience dryness that resolves when you wash your face. Your skin care therapist will suggest products to use while your skin is flaking and she will stop your other products as your skin will be very active and will not need more activation with product.

Day 5-7 Your skin will feel plumped up and very hydrated even though you might still be flaking a little.

Your skincare routine while flaking

In the Morning:

Cleanse your skin with your finger tips using your Lamelle Cleanser.

Pat your skin dry with a towel, do not rub.

Apply Brighter Concentrate as your skin care professional has instructed.

Apply Barrier Repair Cream or Serra Restore, your skin care therapist will indicate what you will need to use and when.

Apply your Lamelle Sunscreen.

During the Day:

Carry your Lamelle Barrier Repair Cream or Serra Restore with you, when your skin feels dry or slightly itchy, apply more product to the area.

DO not allow your skin to become dry as you will then tend to rub or scratch your skin.

In the Evening:

Cleanse your skin with your finger tips using your Lamelle Cleanser.

Pat your skin dry with a towel, do not rub.

Apply Brighter Concentrate as your skin care professional has instructed.

Apply Barrier Repair Cream or Serra Restore, your skin care therapist will indicate what you will need to use and when.

chemical Skin Peels diagram

Special care directly afer the treatment:

  • Protect your skin from the sun by avoiding sun and apply your sunscreen every morning.
  • No treatments for 14 days on the treated area, this includes waxing, peels and laser or IPL treatments and micro needling.
  • Do not exfoliate for 10 days after the treatment. These include toners and cleansers that contain alpha hydroxy acids.
  • Only start using your retinoid (Vit. A) containing products on the evening of day 6 after the treatment.

How it Works:

In micro needling refers to the minimally invasive treatments where and an instrument is used to create multiple micro injuries to the skin. This treatment is used in two ways. One to increase the amount of active ingredients that penetrate the skin and the second to create new healthy collagen and dermal structure to the skin while removing old damaged tissue.

Product penetration: This is a home care treatment.

Collagen induction therapy

Collagen induction therapy will entail and in office treatment with a Dermaroller that has a needle length of 1 mm and up. This treatment is used to create micro injuries that will allow the inflammatory process in the deeper, dermis, layer of the skin to be activated. This acute inflammatory process will activate the skin to remove old damaged collagen and elastin and also scar tissue. Your body will then also activate the fibroblasts to make more fibroblasts (proliferation) and make healthier collagen, elastin and everything that lies around these structures (extra cellular matrix). In this way the scarring (especially acne scaring), fine lines and texture are treated and deeper lines are softened.

The treatment explained

The skin will first be prepared for the treatment by cleansing to remove any impurities and make up. The therapist will then apply an anaesthetic cream to your skin and cover this with a plastic wrap. The wrap makes sure the anaesthetic penetrates well and does not dissipate into the atmosphere.  This will stay on your face for around 20 to 40 minutes so you can read your favourite magazine or check up on your electronic messages.

After the allotted time the therapist will remove the plastic wrap and anaesthetic and will use the Dermaroller to create micro injuries all over the treatment area. She will also use this opportunity to add a serum to your skin that will give it all the vitamins, minerals, anti-oxidants and amino acids it will need to feed and fix your skin.

After the rolling is complete she will apply a cooling mask to feed your skin a little more and to give your skin a chance to recover.

She will finish of the process with a moisturising product.

We do not suggest that you put sunscreen or make-up on your skin for 2 hours after the treatment. The reason being, your skin is much more permeable for this time and the ingredients might absorb to the lower layers of your skin where your skin will see it as foreign and might react to it.

Skin directly after the treatment

Directly after the treatment your skin will feel plum, hydrated and a little warm  directly after the treatment. When the anaesthetic does wear off you might find the heat intensifying. A cool cloth will calm it down very quickly. Do not apply aloe, after sun or ice to your skin.

What you can expect in the week after your treatment

For the first 48 hours after your treatment your skin might look a little sunburnt. It will be plump and hydrated and most people love their skin for the first three to five days as all the lines and texture plumps out.

On day five to seven your skin will feel very dry and even course so it is critical that you add more moisturising ingredients on these days especially to help your skin to exfoliate the dry Corneum. Combining your Dermaroller treatment with peels in your course of treatment will make this phase less obvious.

Dermatoller

Special care directly afer the treatment:

  • Apply more Corrective Hydrating HA Serum and Barrier as required for 5 to 7 days after the treatment
  • Protect your skin from the sun by avoiding sun and apply your sunscreen every morning.
  • No treatments for 14 days on the treated area, this includes waxing, peels and laser or IPL treatments and micro needling.
  • Do not exfoliate for 10 days after the treatment. These include toners and cleansers that contain alpha hydroxy acids.
  • Only start using your retinoid (Vit. A) containing products on the evening of day 6 after the treatment.

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