What is the difference between a moisturiser and a Corrective?
While a moisturiser contains a whole host of ingredients to fulfil various functions in skin, a Corrective contains only that specific active ingredient to produce only the particular results effectively. Thus, when it comes to addressing specific conditions, a moisturiser can never give you the dramatic results a Corrective can.
Where do Correctives fit into my regular skincare regimen?
A Corrective can be seen as a boosting agent – used for a period of time when your skin needs some extra help, for example, after a holiday in the sun, when you might have some hyper-pigmentation and dryness.
How do I incorporate Correctives into my daily skincare programme?
A Corrective is a serum with a high concentration active ingredient that is usually applied before moisturiser to a clean skin to allow for maximum penetration. Correctives are usually used for about four to eight weeks in the case of hyper-pigmentation, but the time period will differ from one concern (such as sensitivity) to another (such as acne). basically, you’ll use the serum for as long as your skin problem lasts.
What makes one serum better than another?
Of course, the active ingredients in different Correctives will make them function differently, but it is the base (the compound that carries the active ingredient) that has a dramatic effect on how well the active ingredient is absorbed. If the base is not formulated correctly, the active ingredient will just sit on the surface of the skin, will not penetrate the skin, and will not be effective at all. Highly technologically advanced bases are key when it comes to the effectiveness of Correctives.
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Throughout our life our skin follows a normal process of shedding and restoring skin cells on a daily basis. In our younger years this process is highly effective and results in our skin looking and feeling smooth, moist and youthful. However as we age this process tends to slow down by 30 – 40% due to the reduction in an essential skin enzyme called Cathepsin D. The result is dry, dull, flaking skin and even fine lines.
Traditional Exfoliators – The Facts:
- Most exfoliators have an impact on more than just the Stratum Corneum and are not specific enough to treat the underlying problem of ageing.
- Abrasive exfoliators can actually alter the barrier function of the skin.
- They can cause photosensitivity due to the altering of the barrier function of the skin.
Cathepzyme is a product scientifically developed and so advanced that it has the ability to restore Cathepsin D activity and the skins normal cell shedding process, of which youthful skin is a direct result.
Cathepzyme – The Benefits:
- Cathepzyme activity is limited to the Stratum Corneum – there is no unnecessary interference with the lower layers of the skin.
- Cathepzyme can enhance epidermal replacement with virtually no skin barrier disruption
- Cathepzyme has Cathepsin-D like activity – a very natural way to affect epidermal replacement.
It can be used to:
- Increase the rate of epidermal replacement to normal rates
- To enhance normal skin exfoliation
- To maintain the skin barrier while reducing epidermal replacement time
It can be used for:
- Facial skin texture improvement
- Keratosis Pilaris
- Pre-peel preparation
- Home acne and pigmentation programme support
- Enhancing product penetration
Ageing of the skin is recognised by wrinkles, thinning, discolouration and progressive sagging. Accumulation of sun damaged tissue acts as an inhibitor of the repair mechanisms and needs very carefully planned correction in order to improve the appearance of aged skin. Prevention of these damaging skin cell cycles requires very effective focused intervention. Correctives recharge CE complex is able to perform both functions effectively.
- A newborn child has high cell and collagen production potential.
- On the other side of the scale, an 80 year old adult has a much lower cell activity level and suppressed collagen production.
- Treatment of these aged cells with an adequate and stable dose of ascorbic acid has been shown to increase cell activity and collagen production to the same level as a newborn child.
- Lamelle Research Laboratories provides an innovative solution with the new Correctives recharge CE complex.
- This stable, high concentration ascorbic acid product delivers a rapid AND delayed release phase ascorbic acid into the skin over a 12 hour period without any skin irritation. Irrespective of skin age, improvements in wrinkles, skin texture, discolouration and firmness are achievable with regular use.
Lamelle Research Laboratories’ Correctives Recharge CE Complex can be applied twice daily after cleansing and drying the face followed by the prescribed skincare programme.
RA cream is indicated for the preparation of remodelling and restoring photo-damaged and intrinsically aged skin as a nightly application. For an individual who has clinical signs of photo-aged or intrinsically aged skin, we can talk about the key changes that RA cream can bring about in both the epidermis and dermis. RA cream will ‘Clean Out” the damage to make way for the powerful re-building of Dermaheal skin speciἀc growth factors. RA cream gets the skin back in shape and ‘prepared’ to be fixed.
RA cream is a highly concentrated retinoic acid analog cream.
RA cream is a unique blend of modern emollients, sage extract, L-serine amino acids, hyaluronic acid and a patented retinoic acid analog.
How to use RA cream
RA cream is applied once daily, preferably at night. A broad spectrum sunscreen is advised for use while using RA cream. RA cream must be stopped 2 days before professional skin resurfacing, IPL or laser therapy.
What are Retinoids?
Retinoids are a group of organic chemical compounds that are related to Vitamin A (Retinol). They are lipid soluble and are essential for skin cell homeostasis. Retinoids have many important and diverse functions throughout the body including roles in vision, regulation of cell proliferation and differentiation, growth of bone tissue, immune function, and activation of tumour suppressor genes. Retinoids can be catagorised as either natural or synthetic (analog). Naturally occurring retinoids include retinyl palmitate, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. These retinoids are usually derived from the diet and end up as retinol in the bloodstream. This retinol, when entering the skin, undergoes one of two chemical changes. It is either converted into a storage form (retinyl palmitate) found primarily in the liver and skin or it is converted into an ‘active form’ which is retinoic acid.
Synthetic retinoids (a.k.a. retinoic acid analogs) act like retinoids but are not the same molecule as RA. Natural retinoids such as tretinoin (another name for retinoic acid) activate ALL of the three RARs (and RXRs) and as a result are often associated with irritancy and other undesirable side effects.
Synthetic retinoids have been ‘fine tuned’ to still target SELECTED RARs thereby reducing many of the undesirable side effects typical of RA. Synthetic retinoids have become mainstream in prescription retinoid therapy more recently for this very reason.
Use of retinoic acid analogs in nonprescription skincare is now a reality!
Metabolism of Retinoids in the skin
Depending on the form of the retinoid when applied to the skin, the effects can vary.The retinyl esters have been shown to have a very limited effect on the skin other than its use as a non-enzymatic anti-oxidant. It’s anti-ageing benefits are presumably attributed to its metabolic conversion to retinoic acid (although this occurs in extremely limited amounts). Retinol on the other hand is far more potent than retinyl palmitate or acetate and is considered the gold standard in cosmetic retinoids, considered as the precursor for retinoic acid. Adding one or more retinyl esters together does not add very much to the potency of the retinoids because they still need to undergo the same metabolic conversion to produce the ‘active’ metabolite of retinoic acid. The further the metabolic distance of the retinoid to retinoic acid, the less potent the compound is when applied topically. The retinyl esters typically include either retinyl palmitate or retinyl acetate or retinyl proprionate.Based on the ‘metabolic distance’ of the esters form retinoic acid, it is clear that they are far less ‘active’ in the skin.
The Signalling Pathway of Retinoids
(for ease of learning, this discussion will be limited to pathways in the skin only.)
Once available retinoids have been metabolised to retinoic acid (RA) in the skin, they interact with receptors in the surface of cells (i.e. keratinocytes and ἀbroblasts) called CRABP (cellular retinoic acid binding protein). This receptor is required to ‘internalise’ the retinoic acid into the cell so that it can reach the nucleus. Once the RA reaches the nucleus of the cell, it then binds to the nuclear receptors of which there are two types: Retinoic acid receptors (RAR) and retinoic x receptors (RXR). RAR’s have three isoforms, namely alpha, beta and gamma. RXR’s also exist in three isofroms; alpha. beta and gamma.Once activated by the RA inside the nucleus, the RAR and RXR’s attach themselves to the nuclear DNA and induce DNA transcription (reading of the DNA) and then produce a cellular effect (translation).
Retinoic Acid versus Retinol once applied to skin
Retinoic acid is immediately capable of binding to CRABP and initiating a cellular response. Retinol requires conversion to RA BEFORE it can have any retinoic acid effects on CRABP and RAR. Retinyl esters have an even longer conversion route to undergo before they can exert a retinoic acid effect. Other than time for conversion, retinol and retinyl esters also are far less potent than retinoic acid. These are two very clear reasons that RA is still the most effective retinoid option for skin therapy and care.
RA Cream Retinoids effects once applied to the skin
RA cream consists of the very same patented retinoid technology applied in the Clarity Corrective PM range but at a higher concentration. RA cream contains a patented retinoic acid analog that has retinoic acid effects on the skin but with limited irritancy and no toxicity.
What happens to RA Cream in the skin?
Unlike any currently available retinoid in the skin care market today, RA cream offers a patented retinoic acid analog to address the changes of skin ageing. The retinoic acid analog in RA cream is locked into a highly lipid soluble base cream that assists its penetration into the epidermis and to some extent the dermis. The retinoic acid analog DOES NOT NEED TO CONVERT to retinoic acid for it to be metabolically active. Internal research has shown that our retinoic acid analog technology has direct activity on RAR (beta and gamma) receptors without the need for ANY conversion to retinoic acid first. In keeping with this novel effect of retinoid receptor activation in the analog form, it comes then as no surprise that there is NO increase in blood retinoid levels in healthy humans even with daily application. This makes the use of this novel compound much safer than convention retinoic acid.Given that retinoic acids analogs can be designed to target specific RAR’s, it comes as you might expect that the retinoic acid analog found in RA cream is much better tolerated than conventional retinoids. Internal studies have shown that even with elevated concentrations daily for a month under occlusion produced no irritation to healthy skin.
Benefits of Retinoic Acid analogs for ageing skin
- Compaction of the stratum corneum by increasing corneocyte shedding.
- Increasing the thickness of the viable epidermis by enhancing cell turnover.
- Increased extracellular mucin deposition to plump and ἀrm the epidermis.
- RA cream Inhibits AP-1 (Activating Protein-1) thereby reducing MMP production.
- RA cream suppresses the excessive production of elastin in the sun damaged dermis (Elastosis).
- RA cream reverses the UVR induced suppression of RAR alpha and gamma receptor expression and thereby avoiding a relative vitamin A deficiency in the dermis.
- RA cream increases fibroblast collagen production over 6 months.
RA Cream Additional Ingredients
Although the new retinoic acid analog is the predominant ingredient of the formulation, there are also additional ‘support’ ingredients to aid the comfort factor of the RA cream.
- L-Serine amino acids – The predominant amino acid in the stratum corneum is an excellent water retainer in the intercellular space.
- Sage extract – A rich source of Ursolic acid that is twice as potent as some pharmaceutical anti-inflammatory extracts.
- Hyaluronic acid – Known to assist with water retention in the stratum corneum and thereby assist with cell desquamation and retaining firmness to the epidermis.
- RA cream is a remarkably well tolerated retinoid. The patented retinoic acid analog has been engineered to target specific RAR receptors only and thereby reducing the irritancy profile dramatically.
- It has been suggested that the irritancy of retinoids is linked to the presence of the carboxyl group (COOH) found on the tail end of the molecule. In order to overcome the irritancy associated with retinoic acid and its COOH tail, the retinoic acid analog in RA cream has a modified tail where the COOH group has been REMOVED from the compound making it a remarkably well tolerated retinoid. The patented retinoic acid analog has been engineered to target specific RAR receptors only (RAR beta and gamma) and thereby reducing the irritancy profile dramatically.
- Healthy women treated with the same high dose as used in RA cream showed NO increase in blood retinoids after several weeks of use, implying the risk to women of reproductive age is non existent, yet as a precaution we would still advise that they do not use the product during pregnancy.
- Retinoids are known for their irritating properties, namely redness, dryness and flaking.
- This is due to the free carboxylic acid in the polar end of the retinoid.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is RA cream for all skin regimes?
Yes, RA cream is compatible with all skin regimes.
Why should I not use RA cream in the morning?
RA cream contains a novel patented retinoid that is intended as a once daily dose. The most convenient application time is the evening as there is less chance of the product being rubbed off or removed.
Why is it important for me to RA cream as part of my daily regime?
RA cream contains an novel patented retinoic acid analog. Retinoids play an essential role in normal skin functioning and levels are depleted daily by sun exposure. With age, many of the normal skin processes that keep skin looking young and healthy (that require retinoid activity) decline and as such the supplementation of the skin with an ACTIVE retinoid alternative makes fantastic sense and indeed shows tremendous benefit.
How does RA cream differ from Recharge CE?
A cream is a high concentration patented retinoic acid analog product. This is in contrast to Recharge CE which is a high concentration biphasic ascorbic acid product. Recharge CE serum is for the potent protection and stimulation of skin. Recharge CE is there to both reduce the impact of environmental and metabolic ROS generation. It has building properties of the dermis but WILL NOT reduce elastosis, it’s not a ‘clean-out’ therapy.
How does RA Cream differ from Dermaheal?
Dermaheal is for the potent increase in skin healing and healthy skin formation. Growth factors will not remove the damaged tissue to make way for new tissue later.
Can I use RA cream while pregnant?
While there is ample data to show that NONE of the retinoic acid analog will reach the bloodstream, we have not conducted studies in PREGNANT women and so do not promote the use of RA cream in pregnancy.
Hydrating HA PLUS is a supplement to a moisturiser for dry skin concerns. The serum contains high concentrations of HAFi fragments which attract water and activate cell metabolism within the skin.
Optimal water levels in the epidermis are essential to maintain an effective barrier function, corneocyte desquamation and cell metabolism. The outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) is pivotal in establishing and maintaining an effective barrier to control water exchange as well as preventing the entry of harmful elements and overall moisturisation, to enhance normal skin shedding and reduce skin tightness and sensitivity.
Initially intended to enhance skin hydration in combination with a clients existing skin care program, hydrating HA PLUS serum now holds significant benefits beyond additional skin hydration. Correctives hydrating HA PLUS serum is the first product in the industry to make use of HAFi fragments (Intermediate size Hyaluronic acid fragments). Instead of using regular Hyaluronic acid in the product, HAFi fragments open a whole new avenue for enhanced skin health and appearance. Larger fragment HA assist in surface hydration effects to plump up the epidermis while HAFi fragments work at the deeper dermal layer to increases fibroblast activity and collagen production to enhance dermal modelling while firming and plumping the skin.
What makes Hydrating HA PLUS different?
HAFi fragments are made when a large Hyaluronic acid molecule is cleaved (divided) into different fragment sizes using a sonifier (a high powered ultrasonic reactor), the resulting fragments are then separated into their respective sizes using an exclusion gel filtration column. This ensures that the resulting HAFi fragments are all within a specific molecular weight range.
Introduce your skin to the wonders of HAFi fragments, the only fragments that have five very specific effects on the skin:
- They penetrate into the epidermis and dermis.
- They attract and bind water into the epidermis and dermis.
- They stimulate keratinocytes and fibroblaststo produce additional Hyaluronic acid.
- They increase the number of cells.
- They assist in wound healing by encouraging the movement of new keratinocytes across the surface of an injury.
(NB: HAFi fragments are very specific sized fragments or pieces of HA that are made when large HA molecules are broken down into shorter fragment sizes).
What you can look forward to:
Hydrating HA PLUS is a supplement to a moisturiser for dry skin concerns and is suitable for all skin types, including those intolerable of oil based skin types. The high concentrations of specialised ingredients and unique HAFi fragments that attract water into the skin and keep water in place, enhancing normal skin shedding and reducing skin tightness and sensitivity. Added benefits to patients with skin thinning is the thickening and plumping of the skin as well as a reduction in pseudo-scars, haemorrhage and thin visible vessels due to hydrating HA PLUS increasing cell proliferation, movement, and enhanced cell growth. With repeated use of hydrating HA PLUS, skin becomes softer, smoother and brighter.
Dark marks and pigmentation have many different triggers such as pregnancy, hormonal changes, the pill, family history and sun exposure. Over time these marks can become darker and hyper-pigmentation widespread over exposed areas such as the face, neck, chest, arms and hands.
Correctives Brighter Concentrate from Lamelle Research Laboratories, which contains the unique compound Decabutin combined with 4 pigment inhibiting peptides, is an effective treatment for hyper-pigmentation.
What makes Correctives Brighter Concentrate different?
Brighter Concentrate inhibits 8 steps in the melanin production pathway and is significantly more potent than Hydroquinone, Kojic acid and Beta-arbutin.
Brighter Concentrate provides a revolutionary solution to the complex problem of hyper-pigmentation with an innovative blend of conventional and unique peptide ingredients.
Brighter Concentrate Offers The Following Benefits:
- 8 steps in the pigmentation pathway are influenced to improve the appearance of pigmented areas.
- Leading the technological innovation are the four proprietary pigmentation inhibiting peptides Oligopeptide-34, 51, 53 and Pentapeptide-15 which are expertly combined with incredibly effective enzyme inhibitors to deliver this pigmentation innovation.
- Decabutin, a new edition to the Lamelle armamentarium is ‘bright’ years before its time, is a very rapid penetrator, reaching straight to the root of the problem and reducing the appearance of dark spots.
- Does NOT contain any Hydroquinone or potentially damaging or irritating ingredients.
- Unlike some traditional skin brightening ingredients, Brighter Concentrate does NOT cause any sun-sensitivity or bleaching of the skin.
- Brighter Concentrate can be used twice daily on affected areas either as a booster with other skincare products
- Used in conjunction with the Luminesce pigmentation programme or as preparation for and post professional resurfacing treatments to reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation.
- Pre treatment prepping agent and does not need to be discontinued prior to professional treatments
How To Use Brighter Concentrate
Brighter Concentrate has a gel-like consistency that spreads easily upon application. Brighter Concentrate is used twice daily directly after washing the area. Day and night products are applied on top of Brighter Concentrate. An effective sun protection product is ALWAYS recommended as part of any skin care programme. To effectively manage the dark areas, your skin care professional will need to perform a thorough history and skin assessment to determine the depth and cause of the pigmentation. If your condition is considered treatable, in-office programmes will be combined with Brighter Concentrate to provide maximum results in the shortest possible time.