Twenty One Days of Healthy Skin: Retanoids (Day 15)
Retinoids (the group of ingredients that include vitamin A) are the gold standard in anti-aging treatments in medicine. Retinoic acid has been studied since the 1980s and the data have shown that this form of retinoid has the ability to create younger, healthier-looking skin with constant use.
The challenge with Retinoic acid is that it has a side effect profile that causes dry, itchy, flaking skin that at times might present with a fine rash as well. For this reason, the form of retinoid is only available with a script from a doctor. It also needs to be included in a skincare routine very slowly to get the skin accustomed to it.
There are other forms of Retinoids. They generally exist within 5 groups.
"But why, if they have a side effect profile, do I want to use retinoids?
The advantage of using retinoids, specifically retinoic acid, is that it works on a genetic level to activate the cell to production and turnover in the viable (alive) skin layers. They also help the dead skin cells to shed more evenly. This is without injury to the skin and providing improved long term effects then scrubs or exfoliators. They are also able to increase the removal of damaged or poorly forms elastin, called elastosis, in the bottom layers of the skin called the dermis. If you use retinoic acid for 10 months or more it also has a collagen production effect.
So what are we seeing in the skin?
That would depend on the skin challenge you are treating. With retinoids, we can achieve a few things:
In the treatment of Acne retinoic acid is critical for skin cell activation, differentiation, and shedding. In an acne client, this is an active treatment for pimples and also black and whiteheads
In the treatment of skin that is aging retinoic acid will improve dull skin, remove mottled or irregular pigmentation and will in the long term assist in improving fine lines.
In the management of conditions that result in hyperpigmentation retinoic acid is used to increase the turnover of cells that are hyper-pigmented and will enhance pigment inhibition results in this way.
But you need a script
The truth is you needed a script before Lamelle launched the RA range of products a few years ago.
At Lamelle we have a form of Retinoic acid that does not cause the side effect profile associated with prescriptions strength retinoic acid. It, however, has clinical data to support the changes that are evident with the use of prescription retinoic acid.
This means we can be supplied to you via skincare professionals without a script. Of course, you would still need to have the skincare professional analyse your skin and chose the right product for you. It also means that you do not need to introduce it slowly but that you can start using it every night immediately.
Important when using a retinoic acid containing product:
They are applied during the night only – UV light deactivates retinoids
Cleanse your skin in the morning after use of the retinoid and apply an SPF 30 at least – retinoids can sensitise the skin to the sun
Stop all retinol, retinoic acid or isotretinoin topical applications 3 days before and 5 days after resurfacing treatments
Lamelle products that contain the retinoic acid analogue:
The RA range of Correctives
Luminesce Evening Glow
Clarity Corrective PM Plus
Dermaheal Ultra Renewal Cream
Written By:
Training Specialist Karen Bester